Timbonez

They're G10 grips. The texturing is a golf ball type pattern. VZ Grips offers paper, linen, canvas, and G10 grips for several different types of handguns (primarily the 1911 and HP). I have a set of HP pro slims in tiger stripe on my current HP, and I plan on buying some HP 320s in hyena brown for my third HP. Two of my Nighthawk 1911s came with VZ grips as well. VZ is also running a 10% discount on items over $65 right now until midnight tomorrow. OCT2010 is the promotional code.

Well I have another Hi Power coming my way. This one is a Mk II, and they were made between '82 and '88. I am currently looking at another another Mk II HP as well. If I get that one, I'll have three HPs in the stable.

Stoleit, you're a Magpul whore. How is that PRS? It's too expensive for me. M2, hope that fixes your functioning problems. Keep us updated.

To expound on what Jarhead said, it really is a solution to a non-problem. There are those who believe that the recoil spring will bind if it is captured by a standard GI guide rod and plug. If you have a 1911 or are able to take one apart and look at it, you will see that it is pretty much impossible. With the slide forward and the spring sitting in the plug and around the guide rod there is a minute amount (don't remember the exact length off the top of my cranium) of spring that isn't in contact with the plug or guide rod. If you can imagine it sitting inside the 1911, it has the barrel above it and the dust cover below it preventing any movement along the longitudinal axis. As the slide moves rearward and the spring compresses, the spring completely rests on guide rod and in plug. Using a standard GI guide rod and plug also allows you to take the weapon apart without a tool. The full length guide rod requires that the spring cup plug's end be open. There isn't enough surface area to push the plug down to start taking down the weapon. That isn't exactly true. There is but your fingers will curse you for it. Also, if you want to operate the weapon one-handed (like if you're injured) you can still rack the slide by using a flat surface pressed up against where the guide rod plug is and pushing forward. This only works on Government sized models as the Commanders and smaller models don't have enough length in the slide to fully eject a case and chamber one, since you're not cycling the slide completely this way. Look at 0:10 in the video below. The one advantage the full length guide rod does provide is extra weight to control recoil, and some people like the change in balance as well. Personally I prefer the standard GI guide rod and plug. Only one of my 1911s came with the FLGR, and I replaced it. Hopefully this animation makes my explanation understandable.

If you don't have one already, you're wrong. CMP is the way to go.

Nice rifle! For roughly the same price, you have a top notch rifle that's much better than the more "popular" brands that the average American would buy. I would have waited for the mid-length or gone somewhere else for it though, especially with a 16" barrel, but you did good regardless.

Colt released info earlier this year about their 100th anniversary 1911s. I believe there are three versions, with the first being unavailable to the public. The second has engravings and such and a limited run of 750 pistols. The third is a M1911 repro, much like their O1918, but with unique rollmarks that commemorate 100 years of 1911 goodness. Reading on other forums, it looks like they will be available starting in November. Production for the third version will continue until November 2011. It was mentioned as long as an order was made before that deadline it will be produced. Linky Looks like I'll be getting one and maybe one of these, as long as my bank heist is successful.

Noveske is one of the best choices, in a long list of choices, for an AR-15. One of the great things about Noveske is that you can order almost any custom feature on their rifle if you buy direct from them. Granted you will pay their MSRP rather than a gun shop's or online dealer's lower price point, but Noveske does offer a mil discount (10% or 15%, don't remember exactly). That looks like their light carbine FSR, but with their older upper receiver. I see yours has a different flash hider than their standard vortex flash hider. Did you ask for a different one? I own one of their light carbine, basic W/VIS.

Which ARs were you looking at specifically? There are distinct differences in quality from baseline, middle-of-the-road, and top tier AR-15s. Buying parts and building a top tier rifle for cheaper than buying a complete rifle in the same class is very possible. When you try to compare its price to a lesser AR, the lesser one will most likely win. You truly get what you pay for in the AR-15 market, with a few exceptions.

Well I finally got my last Nighthawk Custom 1911. Well I actually ordered it before the other two but there were some hiccups along the way. Here are some pics. I'm not good with lighting, but it's a black slide on a titanium blue frame, with black controls and alumagrips.

Bravo Company is a very good source for complete uppers and accessories. I own two of their uppers and three of their bolt carrier groups. You really can't go wrong with BCM stuff. RDIAS are legal but they're very expensive and you need to register it with the ATF. And many states restrict NFA weapons like that.

Between the two, definitely go with the Spikes. You've obviously done your research, and the accessories you've chosen will make an great carbine. To build the Spike's stripped lower you'll want to get a good lower parts kit (LPK). A lot of people use DPMS and Rock River Arms (I've used two of their LPKs, with varying results), but I suggest you get a Daniel Defense or CMT/Stag LPK. The Daniel Defense is probably your best bet other than Colt, but you'll be paying over twice as much with Colt and it won't even come with a trigger. Linky for DD LPK. You'll also need to buy a receiver extension, castle nut, and the CTR stock. If you don't want to keep the standard A2 grip that comes with the LPK some good options are the Magpul MIAD or Magpul MOE grips. You'll also need a carbine action spring and a buffer for the receiver extension. For a midlength system, I would recommend an H buffer. If you want to buy a complete lower, there are plenty of good options out there and Spikes is a good choice. Most of them come standard with the M4 stock, but you can easily replace that with the CTR that you want. FWIW, I run standard M4 stocks on all my AR-15s except for my Noveske (it came with a Vltor stock). As for the gas piston question, no it is definitely not necessary. The AR-15 DI gas system has been around for over 50 years and has been used with great success. I have one gas piston system and it's an LWRC. It's a great rifle, it runs cleaner, and the internals stay cooler, but I wouldn't say it's better than my DI rifles. You also have to realize that most AR-15 manufacturers are jumping on the gas piston bandwagon. They are all proprietary, which means you'll have to go back to the company you bought it from to get replacement parts for the piston system. They are also composed of multiple parts, which have replaced the DI system's single gas tube and roll pin. Basically what I'm saying is, since this is your first AR-15, I'd stick with a DI gun first and then buy a piston gun later. The difference between a full auto carrier and a semi auto carrier is the amount of steel used in it. The full auto carrier uses more, which increases the dwell time before the bolt unlocks from its lugs and moves rearward ejecting the spent case. The increased dwell time will aid in extraction of the spent case as well as help prevent bolt carrier bounce. The top bolt carrier is an old Colt semi-auto carrier. Notice where the rear of the firing pin would be... it's is not shrouded. Also the rear of the carrier has less steel compared to the middle carrier. The middle carrier has the proper shrouded firing pin and extra steel. That's a full auto carrier, and it's the one you want. The bottom carrier is your standard semi-auto carrier. Ok, so that's a lot of information, and I hope I conveyed it in a somewhat coherent manner. The following is a link of desirable features in an AR-15. It's part of a list of recommended carbines, which you can ignore. Just pay attention to the description of each item and decide how important it is to you. Finally, be confident that Spikes puts out an incredibly priced weapon that is very competitive with higher priced AR-15s. M4 Comparison Chart and Explanation of Desirable Features

That's a crappy deal. There really isn't much you can do. Talking to Dayton police probably won't yield any results, but it's better than nothing. When you filed mail fraud with USPS did you talk to anyone and explain the situation? I thought money orders are protected.

I agree. I already have a Model 27 with a 4" barrel.

Just won an auction on GunBroker for a S&W Model 27-3 w/6" barrel. It will be a nice complement to my other two S&W .357s and all my other revolvers in general. I'll post my own pics once I get it.

There is something to be said about the simple lines of a classic GI style 1911. It has everything you need and nothing you don't to fight the evils of the world. Congrats on your purchase.

I agree that mounting extras on a bone stock M14 is not as intuitive, but saying it's not as durable as a SCAR is simply untrue. M14s are made of steel and wood (modified ones forgo the wood stock for an aluminum one). The SCAR has a polymer lower and aluminum upper. M14s from the 50s are currently being used overseas in a DMR role. Durability is not an issue. If you're worried about the cost of mounting a scope on an M1A, the rifle itself is significantly cheaper than the overpriced SCAR. Allowing your to buy a good mount and scope, reaching a price of a plain jane SCAR. I think you're making it a bigger deal than it really is though. The SCAR's modularity and interchangeability of barrels is a benefit, but the M14 still has a longer barrel giving it better balistics than the SCAR, all this at only a pound heavier than the SCAR LB version. Regardless, it's like comparing apples to oranges. Most SCARs will be using a 16" barrel or shorter for close in fighting. An M14/M1A is going to be used as a distance weapon. That being said, if it's someone's first foray into the battle rifle realm I think the M1A is still a better option. It's proven, less expensive, and there are more options, to include spare parts, for it as well. The SCAR has good ergonomics, the barrel change feature and it is lighter, but to each his own.

Yeah, there are definitely a lot of new battle rifles coming out. M14/M1A still reigns supreme.

For comparison, M16 lowers and registered drop-in auto sears for your standard AR-15 receivers run between $10K-$15k.

M2, are the .38/200 cartridges easy enough to find/buy?

What M2 said. .44 special is a more difficult cartridge to find, and most of the ammo are the downloaded cowboy loads. Reloading will be your friend with .44 special. Also check out Buffalo Bore. It's expensive but their ammo is pretty good in the self defense realm. Some of the other calibers they load have a dubious +p or +p+ rating when no such rating exists for that caliber (i.e. .40 S&W and .44 magnum), but I guess they just list it like that so you know what you're getting yourself into. They'll also give you velocities for multiple barrel lengths.

I just got a call from Novak's and they're done with my Hi Power. I should have it tomorrow. Damage was $723... almost as much as the pistol. Ouch!

I've never shot a Five-SeveN, but the ammo available to non-LEO/Mil isn't the type designed for the weapon. It was meant to fire a round capable of piercing your standard pistol body armor, so it can't be had by civilians. Royal mentioned ammo prices, and the fact is that it's very comparable to .45 ACP prices. That shouldn't be an issue. What do you want to do with the pistol? It would make a half-decent self defense handgun because it's capacity overshadows your typical self defense cartridges, it's very light recoiling, but the energy deposit is lacking. It's probably best suited as a novelty firearm or range only gun. If we had access to the armor piercing rounds and there was an impending Red Dawn-esque threat, then maybe I would go with that weapon. You're better off with the M&P 45 for an all around gun. I used to have one with the 4" barrel and standard 10rd capacity, and I thought it was great. I sold it because I just don't like polymer handguns, but other than my distaste for plastic it was an outstanding performer. The exact model I had was this: linky. No useless thumb safety, no magazine disconnect (I'm personally indifferent about this feature on any firearm), and no weapon lock. ETA: M2, I hear Arsenal makes a quality AK type rifle, which is better than your typical off the shelf surplus weapon. Nineline, as long as your pistol is reliable, it fits well in your hand, and you're halfway decent shooting it then it's a good choice. Glocks are good handguns, and the 26 is a nice size for those who don't want to carry a full size weapon. I conceal carry different handguns at different times, but the calibers are .38 special/.357 magnum, 9mm, and .45 ACP. Currently it's an M9 Beretta because that's what I've been practicing with most lately.

M2, Some food for thought, linky. McMillan is known for making stocks for the Marines' M40 rifles, and their TAC-50 was used by Canadian snipers to make the longest recorded kill at the time (2002). He mentions how the barrel break-in procedure is more detrimental than beneficial. Anyway, good luck with it.

M2, that whole breaking in a barrel thing is a myth. Just shoot it.