Gun Talk

[viper154]

It's a PSA lower, I ordered a couple items from them and had issues, their customer service is severely lacking. I did a idiot check and popped out the fire control group and tried the screw in back (sts) and the hole is definitely the wrong size.  I've never had this issue either, my best guess is whoever did the original hole just used the wrong size tap/bit. I would rather not ship a semi complete lower but worse case I will. I'll call around and check local stores this weekend. 

[viper154]

13 minutes ago, Kiloalpha said:

I actually just passed on a PSA lower and picked up a Spikes instead. I'm sorry it happened to you, Herk... But I'm going to heed your example and stick to other manufacturers from now on. Even if the lower is $49 bucks. Haha.

FWIW, I seem to have good luck with PSA's parts kits and accessories, I just bought their Geissele SSA-E LPK as a matter of fact. Takes forever to ship.

I wanted a Spikes but all I could find was the PSA. I used a PSA parts kit, also took forever to ship, but the kit was decent, I didn't use their FCG as I got a Geiselle. I picked up a Anderson at the shop when PSA came in, same quality for half the price, slightly heavier, and no tacticool etched in graphics but the screw fit the damn hole. 

[Day Man]

9 hours ago, Kiloalpha said:

FWIW, I seem to have good luck with PSA's parts kits and accessories, I just bought their Geissele SSA-E LPK as a matter of fact. Takes forever to ship.

I got an email from the CEO the other day saying they are switching over systems and they apologize for the delay.

Edited August 18, 2016 by Day Man

[JarheadBoom]

9 hours ago, viper154 said:

...got the lower entirely put together except for the pistol grip, the screw to hold to grip was going in really tight so I backed the screw and the hole tapped in the lower is to small, and the screw I started was enough to start its own grooves in the aluminum. What do y'all recommend, getting a tap and tapping it myself or trying to find a machine shop to do it for me? I've never tapped a hole (sts) and I would rather not f**k my $120 lower up. I'm in Cannon so my local business options are limited. 

1/4-28 x 3/4" (fine thread, or NF) is the correct screw size for an AR-15 pistol grip.

Before doing anything further to the lower, I suggest you drop by your local hardware/home improvement store and pick up a known 1/4-28 screw, to verify whether the lower or the supplied screw is the problem.  I'd be much more inclined to believe the grip screw supplied with your LPK is wrong, before I believe that a CNC-machined, batch-produced, AR-15 lower receiver forging was drilled & tapped incorrectly by the machine (which would also mean that every lower in that run would be drilled & tapped incorrectly as well).

If the lower actually is threaded incorrectly, it's not difficult to tap an already-drilled hole.  What could be problematic is if the existing hole was drilled & tapped to, say, 1/4-20 (coarse thread, or NC).  That hole can be re-tapped to 1/4-28, but the resulting fine threads will be incomplete and significantly weaker, due to all the material the coarse tap removed from the original hole diameter.  In this situation, you could get lucky if PSA doesn't thread the grip screw hole full-depth (not all manufacturers do; I don't know whether PSA is one or not).  If the hole isn't tapped full-length, you can run a 1/4-28 tap all the way through the hole, use a 1/4-28 x 1" screw, and have 1/4" of fully-formed threads in the hole for the longer screw to grab.

If the lower is drilled to a significantly smaller diameter than 0.257" (correct drill size for 1/4-28 tap), it will need to be re-drilled before tapping.

As already noted, be damn careful and proceed slowly, with lots of lube, if you decide to tap it yourself.  A broken tap is a much bigger problem.

[viper154]

10 hours ago, JarheadBoom said:

1/4-28 x 3/4" (fine thread, or NF) is the correct screw size for an AR-15 pistol grip.

Before doing anything further to the lower, I suggest you drop by your local hardware/home improvement store and pick up a known 1/4-28 screw, to verify whether the lower or the supplied screw is the problem.  I'd be much more inclined to believe the grip screw supplied with your LPK is wrong, before I believe that a CNC-machined, batch-produced, AR-15 lower receiver forging was drilled & tapped incorrectly by the machine (which would also mean that every lower in that run would be drilled & tapped incorrectly as well).

If the lower actually is threaded incorrectly, it's not difficult to tap an already-drilled hole.  What could be problematic is if the existing hole was drilled & tapped to, say, 1/4-20 (coarse thread, or NC).  That hole can be re-tapped to 1/4-28, but the resulting fine threads will be incomplete and significantly weaker, due to all the material the coarse tap removed from the original hole diameter.  In this situation, you could get lucky if PSA doesn't thread the grip screw hole full-depth (not all manufacturers do; I don't know whether PSA is one or not).  If the hole isn't tapped full-length, you can run a 1/4-28 tap all the way through the hole, use a 1/4-28 x 1" screw, and have 1/4" of fully-formed threads in the hole for the longer screw to grab.

If the lower is drilled to a significantly smaller diameter than 0.257" (correct drill size for 1/4-28 tap), it will need to be re-drilled before tapping.

As already noted, be damn careful and proceed slowly, with lots of lube, if you decide to tap it yourself.  A broken tap is a much bigger problem.

I tried other screws from my other rifles, it is for sure the wrong size. 

[JarheadBoom]

Well... that is interesting.  Sounds like PSA needs to step up their QA/QC game.

[Hacker]

PSA has aways been a crapshoot, but I've been lucky 99 times out of 100 with stuff I've ordered from them over the last 5 years or so.

Never had anything out of spec, but this year I bought one of the Freedom stainless barrel uppers and the flash hider wasn't installed all the way (at least it was indexed properly...just not all the way down on the crush washer!).

[morenoj135]

I ran into a similar issue with a lower and a PSA pistol grip, fixed the problem by switching out the screw with an extra I had from another pistol grip I had.

[brickhistory]

(not my photo or gun)

S&W Model 457

As I pursue the many avenues S&W followed back in the 1970s and 1980s with their 2nd and 3rd generation semi-autos, I found this several months ago, the Model 457.  Due to a recent PCS and general life getting in the way, I only fired it today and that for only 100 rounds (more on that later).

First, the details:

7 + 1 rounds of .45 acp in a DA/SA bobbed hammer-fired package with a decocker/safety on the left (as above in the photo).

7.25" long with a 3.25" barrel. Width is guesstimated at about 1.3-ish."  This is about the same size as a commander-sized 1911 to my mind.  It's definitely in the compact size range and not a sub-compact.

Weighs 1.8lbs empty and pushes 2.5 with 8 loaded.  Not a lightweight for a CCW but not heinous.

Frame is aluminum alloy, slide is steel.  I put Hogue grips on it.  Comes with cheap plastic three-dot sights.

 

Recently moved to Vegas and still trying to find "my" range.  Today's won't be it because those plastic sights were waaaay off and, after unloading and locking the slide back, the RSO would not let me try to drift the sights to adjust them.  So I was stuck with the sights sending centered shots waaaay to the right and having to compensate Kentucky-style.

The gun itself was pretty good.  Heavy enough to soak up the .45's recoil but not heavy enough to cause the shakes at the end of a full magazine string without lowering it.

SA is really smooth a clean, light break.  DA wasn't bad, but a very different break (duh!) than the SA and I found myself with a different trigger finger position (a little more first joint vs. first pad) for that DA shot, but that's just me.

Ate 100 rounds flawlessly of Herter's 230gr FMJ and in tight groups.  Not necessarily in the 10 ring, but again, the sights were so far off, it wasn't funny.  But hold a picture, and you could put the entire 8 rounds into the same 2"x2" area.  Some homemade gunsmithing and a replacement of the sites with some Trijicons and I'll like it better.

Would I carry it with replacement sites and another 300 rounds down it to ensure reliability?  Yes.

Will I replace my XDS with it?  No, but it's nice to have options.

Another gun I didn't need, but another one I'm not sorry I have.  I won't be selling/trading this one, so that tells me enough about it as a keeper.

[JarheadBoom]

2 hours ago, brickhistory said:

Another gun I didn't need, but another one I'm not sorry I have.

I always enjoy reading your reviews.  Thanks for taking the time to write them; I like hearing fresh perspectives on older guns.

[viper154]

Thanks for all that dropped some knowledge on the tap issue. I bought the correct size tap and T handle on Amazon for 10 bucks and did it myself. Was pretty easy to do. I'll post some pics when I get it finished before it ends up in a lake as a token of appreciation. 

[M2]

Been wanting a Henry from a long time, found a Frontier in .22S/L/LR in near-pristine condition for $300.  Not my photo, but mine is identical to it...

Of course, later that day the upstairs air conditioner goes TU and I have to drop $8500 on a new one!  :P

Cheers!  M2

[Warrior]

Walmart has Marlin 1895 lever guns in 45/70 on sale for $299 and Ruger American Rifles on sale for $199 (certain calibers only).

Not available at all walmarts and stock is limited, but good luck if you're in the market!

[tac airlifter]

Gents, does anyone know anything about buffer weights in AR pistols?  Is there any reason for me to buy something heavier than a standard carbine buffer?  

[busdriver]

In general, the buffer weight has more to do with gas port size for length. Most barrels are over gassed to allow it to work with all ammo. If it were me, I'd buy an adjustable gas block and a carbine buffer.

[tac airlifter]

it's for a piston upper.

[Kiloalpha]

8 minutes ago, tac airlifter said:

it's for a piston upper.

Busdriver is right, basically the weight/spring is used to affect cyclic rate.

I've always used H2 buffers in my AR's... but with a piston I'd call and ask the manufacturer what weight they recommend.

Edited September 23, 2016 by Kiloalpha
Busdriver already said it

[M2]

Start saving your pennies, gents...hopefully prices will be well below the MSRP!

Cheers!  M2

[Hacker]

On 8/21/2016 at 4:11 PM, brickhistory said:

Recently moved to Vegas and still trying to find "my" range.

The entire desert outside of Vegas, NLV, and Henderson is your range.  Depending on where you live, there are various spots for great BLM land shooting.

I live on the south side of Henderson, and shoot out in Sloan Canyon down at the gravel pit.

[hispeed7721]

it's for a piston upper.

Why are you using a buffer in a piston system? I've got H2 buffers in every DI setup I've got (both full length and pistol) but of the multiple piston ARs I have, not one has a buffer in it.


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[HossHarris]

6 hours ago, Hacker said:

The entire desert outside of Vegas, NLV, and Henderson is your range.  Depending on where you live, there are various spots for great BLM land shooting.

I live on the south side of Henderson, and shoot out in Sloan Canyon down at the gravel pit.

Just make sure you aren't on injun land. They get uppity

[brickhistory]

8 hours ago, Hacker said:

The entire desert outside of Vegas, NLV, and Henderson is your range.  Depending on where you live, there are various spots for great BLM land shooting.

I live on the south side of Henderson, and shoot out in Sloan Canyon down at the gravel pit.

So I've heard as well as several folks saying the Clark County range is pretty good.

 

However I am primarily a handgun shooter and I like my creature comforts - not too hot, not too cold.  It's been a trade-off so far between air conditioning in the 100+ degree days this summer vs. the dangers of the herd of Japanese shooters going full rental-auto and shooting my target.

But at least they weren't uppity...

[M2]

7 hours ago, gearpig said:

Wow! My Mark II slab side target is my favorite 22. The takedown sucks though. I'll be investigating this one further. Thx!

Damn, that's gorgeous!

[busdriver]

7 hours ago, hispeed7721 said:

Why are you using a buffer in a piston system? I've got H2 buffers in every DI setup I've got (both full length and pistol) but of the multiple piston ARs I have, not one has a buffer in it.

 

Huh?

[hispeed7721]

If you have a piston AR (pistol or rifle), you don't need a buffer/spring. The piston is doing the work of the buffer. That's what allows you to have a folding stock or no stock, in the case of his AR pistol.

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